Having a meter-main is a huge boon to DIY, since you can totally de-energize the panel with all the breakers. The AHJ might require 4/0 aluminum wire for the meter-main to panel run. And since the wires are breaker protected, you still get the freedom of location. So the 200A would serve as the NEC 2020 outside disconnect, while the 100A main breaker would serve as the true main breaker. Code requires the Disconnect be located outside, not the main breaker. Your AHJ might let you run with a 200A meter-main but a 100A main breaker in the main panel. Same deal with the meter-main: change the main breaker to 100A. It also means you are free to put the panel inside, which means your costly GFCI and AFCI breakers won't be deteriorated by the weather. That means you have much more freedom as to where to put it. It can be locked to deter vandals (the fire department has a master key).įrom an installation perspective, that means the cable run from your meter-main to your master panel (with all your breakers) is breaker-protected and therefore unrestricted, and does not need to be very close to the meter. This integrates the meter with the main breaker. The ideal solution is to come up to NEC 2020 code, and install a meter-main at the meter. Of course you could omit the inlet if you don't want that yet. The 200A main breaker thus goes to the generator inlet (which may also need an inline breakered disconenct if the AHJ wants smaller than 200A breaker protection on it). ![]() So you stick a 100A "generator breaker" in the panel with a tie-down kit and an interlock, and wire the 100A to your service. So the main breaker can simply be swapped out, and leave the 200A in the bottom of the panel for the happy day you upgrade.Įven if that were not so, and the local inspector were amenable, all modern panels provide generator interlocks. Now, how do you get a main breaker into it? That takes a "large frame size" main breaker (most manufacturers have 2 frame sizes), but they do make 100A breakers in the large frame size. 40-space is the largest panel before they start getting expensive, and so that's what we recommend. Spaces are cheap so it's better to buy plenty of spaces now than have a problem later. We regularly see people blocked on projects because their panel is full, and our experience is 30 is not enough for a house. 100A panels have too few breaker spaces for a full house. It is happy as a clam on a 60A, 100A, 125A or 150A service. A 200A bus rating means "Don't feed it 250A". But some distance that is short enough for a 240V line and long enough to make the cable the overwhelming cost in this installation.)Īs the judge explained to me, the 112 MPH tire rating is a maximum rating. because then you'd put a transformer at your end. If what you want to do is allowed but you can't find the parts, you may need to install cascaded boxes (with the main breaker in a meter main or a tiny 100A panel) or to use a back-fed breaker as a main (which your inspector may not like).Īll of this begs the question of why not just install 200A service now? Unless you are miles from the pole I can't see the reason. It's an unusual install so if you haven't purchased the panel yet, make sure to choose one that has a suitably rated 100A main breaker, and that such breaker and any necessary parts to install it are available for purchase in your time frame. And while you're at it, any conduit from the meter to the roof, and/or certainly any underground conduit is all sized for 200A. You may as well ensure any conduit from the meter to the main panel is also big enough for 200A service. So long as you use the correct main breaker you can and should do this.
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